UNIVERSAL GENÈVE Polerouter Date "Golden Horizon" Dial 1960s

Universal Genève launched the Polerouter in 1954, naming it after the SAS flights that first carried passengers over the North Pole, and its design is credited to a young Gérald Genta. This is the Polerouter Date from the 1960s, and its gold dial is the reason to own it. A matte centre is framed by a ring of finely cut sectors that catch the light one by one as the wrist turns. Inside is the automatic Cal.215-1 with 28 jewels. It is a micro-rotor movement, with a small winding rotor set into the movement rather than on top of it, which keeps the case slim. We fitted a black crocodile-embossed leather strap, and it suits a jacket as well as a knit.

The case is gold-tone with a stainless steel caseback stamped with the Polerouter globe. There are marks from use on the case and around the edge of the crystal. It measures 35mm across (excluding crown) and 45mm lug to lug, with a 19mm lug width. The long, curved lugs follow the wrist, so the watch looks larger than its diameter while still sitting close and secure.

Fine crosshair lines divide the matte gold centre of the dial. The outer ring carries radial guilloché between applied gold baton markers, with a doubled marker at 12 and the applied U shield above the name. A magnifier on the crystal enlarges the date at 3. Spotting and light marks show across the centre. The two finishes return light differently, so the ring flashes bright while the centre stays warm and even, and true to the "Golden Horizon" name, a band of light circles the dial.

- wrist size in our picture is 17cm circumference -