History of the Timepiece
This is a study in reading history through a single watch.
Presented here is a Rolex Submariner Date Ref.1680/8, featuring a rare purple-change dial.
Known among collectors as the “Blue Sub,” this reference is already limited in circulation. Over time, its original blue dial is known to develop a range of tones through natural aging—among them, the transition to a deep purple hue, which remains one of the most sought-after variations.
Beyond the dial, this particular piece reveals further depth through its caseback engravings.
From these markings, it can be understood that the watch was manufactured in Switzerland, then exported through the port of London, and subsequently imported by Rolex’s UK branch—adding a clear layer of historical traceability to its journey.
A watch is not defined by appearance alone.
It is shaped by where it has been, and how it has endured.
We invite you to explore the story revealed through its details—
and to experience the quiet luxury of owning time itself.
A study in provenance—
unfolding the history engraved into this purple-changed example.
The caseback bears multiple hallmarks that trace the journey of this piece.
The import mark “T” indicates entry through the port of London in 1974.
A square hallmark with an Ω inside confirms registration in Britain as solid 18k gold.
The “750” stamp, together with the horizontally placed “18” beside it, denotes British registration of 18k gold up until 1975.
In addition, the Swiss hallmark featuring the head of Helvetia, along with the “18K” and “0.750” markings, confirms that the case was manufactured in Switzerland in solid 18k gold.
All of these engravings are deeply set within the confined space of the caseback—
each carrying a specific meaning, forming a complete message.
This piece was exported directly from Switzerland to the port of London,
and as indicated by the “RWC Ltd” stamp, was imported by Rolex’s official UK branch.
The serial number engraved at the center of the caseback completes this narrative—
serving as the final element that ties together its documented path.
In 1969, Ref.1680/8 was introduced as the first professional diver’s model produced in solid 18k gold.
Initially released with a black dial, it was followed in 1971 by a blue dial—clear and vivid, reminiscent of the sea.
The model quickly became an object of admiration worldwide,
and owning one came to represent a certain symbolic achievement.
In 1979, the first-generation model—
“Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Submariner 18k Gold Ref.1680/8”—
passed its role on to its successor, Ref.16808.
The Ref.1680/8 presented here was produced for a relatively short period,
and today, its presence in the global market has significantly diminished.
With rising values in recent years, cases have been replicated with remarkable precision—
some produced by British case makers, reaching a level of quality close to the original.
There have even been instances where such cases were assessed as genuine by Rolex customer service in Japan.
Today, Rolex service centers worldwide have introduced non-destructive material testing,
making the authentication of solid 18k gold cases far more stringent.
Within this context, the present example was specially commissioned for the UK market.
As a first-generation Oyster Date Submariner, it is powered by the Cal.1575—
a movement known for its durability and precision within Rolex’s history.
Its defining feature, however, lies in the dial.
Commonly referred to as a “blue Submariner,”
this model is known to develop a range of expressions over time.
Among them, examples that have shifted toward a purple tone are particularly sought after.
This piece displays that purple transformation in a balanced and visually striking manner,
giving it a strong presence.
It has also been previously submitted to Rolex for evaluation,
confirming its authenticity.
The bezel insert is missing,
yet the watch retains a presence that more than compensates for it.
Rarity, provenance, and the effects of time.
A piece where these elements converge—
best appreciated in person.
