The Polerouter is the watch most people associate with Universal Genève. Introduced in 1954 with a design credited to a young Gérald Genta, and powered from 1955 by the thin "Microtor" automatic with its off-centre rotor, it stayed in production into the late 1960s in many dial and case variations. Rather than a history, this guide is a visual catalogue: the details that make one Polerouter differ from the next, drawn from examples that have passed through our store.
The silver palette
Six faces show how varied a steel Polerouter can be. A black crosshair dial with a silver outer ring. A warm silver dial. The Polerouter Jet with a linen-textured centre and a dark faceted ring. A dial with Arabic 12 and 6 in place of batons. The Polerouter Super with a date. And a Polerouter Date with gem-set markers and a fluted bezel. The case is the same idea in every one; the dial does the talking.
The golden palette
In gold the range is just as wide. Radiant gold and champagne sunburst dials on the Polerouter Date. A mirror-black dial framed by a gold ring. The tonal De Luxe, gold on gold. An aged black-and-gold De Luxe whose dial has developed a speckled patina. And a rose-toned case with a cream dial and a date. These are individual examples, and colour, finish and contrast vary from piece to piece.
Surface and light
Finish reflects light, and age adds another layer. The fine-grain linen dial of the Jet catches light like brushed metal. A tropical brown dial has turned from black to a warm chestnut. A radial sunburst dial throws reflections that move with the wrist. A speckled De Luxe dial shows patina scattered across a dark surface. The close-ups show how much of the character lives in the texture.
A defining detail: the outer ring
The ring around the dial is the Polerouter's signature. On some it is finely grooved; on the Jet it is cut into dark facets; on the De Luxe it is engraved in gold tones; on the gem-set Date it carries the diamond markers. Texture, depth and light around the dial are what set this design apart from other 1950s automatics.
The bracelet edit
On the right bracelet, the Polerouter becomes a single object. Fine links suit the gold De Luxe. Chevron links pick up the radial lines of the gold Date. A woven mesh bracelet softens the gem-set steel Date. The pairings shown are ones we have put together; originality of the bracelet is not implied.
The leather edit
Leather brings another texture to the wrist. A glossy black strap sharpens the two-tone Date with its black centre. A warm brown strap gives the silver Jet a more relaxed, everyday feel. Both let the outer ring stand out against the strap.
On the wrist
The complete picture is on the wrist. Gold and geometry: the gold Date on a chevron bracelet reads as one warm surface. Silver and texture: the gem-set steel Date on mesh sits quietly under a cuff. Which would you wear?
Polerouters in our collection
Our Universal Genève stock changes often. The Polerouters and other Universal Genève watches currently available can be found in our vintage watch collection, and you are welcome to compare dials side by side at our Omotesando store.
