ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Black Dial 18K Gold 1988

Introduced in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date has long been regarded as the summit of the brand's catalogue, produced exclusively in precious metal and recognisable at a glance by the day spelled out in full at twelve o'clock. Reference 18038, made from 1977, carried the line into its modern form with a sapphire crystal and a higher-frequency movement. This example is distinguished by its unused condition, with the green caseback sticker still intact and the original hang tag present.

The case measures 36mm across excluding the crown and 44mm from lug to lug, executed in 18K yellow gold with the fluted bezel that has defined the reference since its introduction. Proportions are classical rather than assertive, and the gold carries the warmth that only solid metal gives. The polished surfaces remain full and unpolished in character.

The dial is black, deep and even, with applied gold baton markers and matching hands that read clearly against it. The day aperture at twelve and the date at three are framed without ornament, the latter magnified by the Cyclops lens. Under light the lacquered surface takes on a quiet gloss that keeps the gold case in balance rather than competing with it.

At its heart beats the automatic Caliber 3055, running at 28,800 vibrations per hour on 27 jewels, with the quickset date that arrived with this generation. The movement carries chronometer certification, a standard the Day-Date has held throughout its history.

Completing the watch is the original 18K gold President bracelet with concealed Crownclasp, designed for this reference alone and fitted to a 20mm lug width. It is sized to a wrist of up to 17.5cm.

Elegant, purposeful, and unmistakably vintage, this Day-Date embodies the restraint that has kept the reference at the centre of Rolex's catalogue for half a century.

- wrist size in our picture is 17cm circumference -