Jaeger-LeCoultre 18k Yellow Gold Clous de Paris

The origins of automatic wristwatch winding systems can be traced back to 1915, when John Harwood introduced one of the earliest automatic mechanisms for wristwatches. Early systems often relied on what became known as the “bumper” automatic”—a rotor that moved only through a partial arc, with springs mounted on either side. As the rotor swung back and forth, the springs would absorb the impact and transfer energy to wind the mainspring.

By 1928, developments such as the Ionic-type mounting system, which used a round bearing structure to support the movement within the case, further refined the concept. In this design, the movement and case arms could shift slightly up and down, improving the efficiency of the winding system.

These early bumper-style automatics allowed the rotor to move through a limited half rotation. By directing this motion into a single winding direction, manufacturers were able to wind the mainspring effectively. However, watchmakers soon began pursuing systems capable of winding the mainspring in both directions, dramatically improving winding efficiency.

This pursuit led to several important milestones in automatic movement development.

In 1947, Felsa introduced the Caliber 1560, one of the earliest bidirectional automatic movements. In 1950, Rolex’s Bienne manufacture presented the Caliber 1030, another important step in automatic winding technology.

Then, in 1951, the manufacture LeCoultre unveiled its own automatic movement: Caliber 493.

What distinguished this movement from others was, above all, its remarkably compact size of just 20 mm. At a time when automatic movements were typically becoming larger to accommodate their winding systems, the ability to engineer such a compact automatic caliber was nothing short of revolutionary. It sent shockwaves through the watchmaking industry.

The movement also served as an ébauche base, influencing many subsequent developments in automatic watchmaking and contributing to the evolution of modern automatic movements.

The watch presented here houses this remarkable Caliber 493.

Its solid 18-carat gold case, measuring over 35 mm, commands a strong and confident presence on the wrist. Surrounding the dial is a beautifully crafted Clous de Paris bezel, whose intricate guilloché pattern elevates the design to something approaching pure art.

While the dial has been redone, the rest of the watch remains in exceptionally fine condition. Taken as a whole, it stands as a truly outstanding and highly desirable timepiece.