SEIKO Rectangular Gold Textured Dial Quartz 1990

A slim rectangular dress watch from Seiko, made in July 1990. The gold dial is brushed with a fine diagonal grain, so it catches light in soft streaks instead of one flat shine, and the applied gold batons sit on it as part of the same warm surface. Inside is the quartz Cal.5E31, the three-hand movement Seiko also used in its Dolce and Spirit dress lines, so there is nothing to wind. We fitted it with a black crocodile-embossed leather strap, which works with a suit as well as a knit, at the office or at dinner.

The case is gold plated base metal with a stainless steel back. It shows light marks from use but no major damage. It measures 27mm across (excluding crown) and 36mm lug to lug, with a 20mm lug width. The sides are cut in narrow steps that run the length of the case, which keeps the outline crisp and gives a simple shape a finely made look. It sits low on the wrist and slips easily under a shirt cuff.

The dial is original, and the code printed at 6 o'clock (5E31-5A10) matches the reference on the case back. Applied gold batons mark the hours, doubled at 12, with gold hands and a small SEIKO signature and nothing else to crowd the face. In strong light the grain shows as fine silvery-gold lines, and in shade the dial settles to a warm pale gold. The polished batons pick up light at every angle, so the texture keeps changing as the wrist moves.

- wrist size in our picture is 17cm circumference -